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湖南省民协【大美乡愁】寻找湖南最美“古村镇,老手艺”活动采编组,带你走泗州寨(下)
【湖南日报】2014年10月10日第四版报道
本报记者 文热心 邓明
通讯员 骆国平
泗州寨的兴起并不因为“水”,而是“城”——官家在这里设治理机构——筑城,因“城”而“市”。因此,这里除了“二里陈街,三里官街”外,还有“五里商街”。虽然商业世俗,可这里文厚史深。
“五里商街”,繁荣不存一把火
“五里商街”,是指泗州街店铺部分,一般以两个牌坊作标志,即从北街的陈尚伊的节孝牌坊到南街的陈嘉贞的贞节牌坊。
这段距离内,街道两旁曾林立着伞、盐、瓦罐、鼎锅、皮革、土纸等铺子,还有牛行、树行等。特别是皮革产品,制作精良,手工细腻,曾远销东北并出口俄罗斯。泗州街的巷道大体为东西走向,分别用陈氏的字辈“忠厚贻谟远,诗书锡庆长”命名,后来又陆续增加了一些商业文化元素的巷名,如“诚”字巷、“信”字巷等。
早在东晋穆帝升平二年(约358年),这里就设宫市县,“市”随“城”兴,泗州街初具雏形(街外县治遗址仍存)。真正让商业勃兴的因素是那条古驿道。它由北往南延伸,将衡(阳)桂(阳)郴(州)等城市“串”起,直至两广。
官员、商贾南来北往,在这里歇脚驻马,自然也就店铺林立了。清康熙六年(1667)二月,朝廷在这里设巡检司,作为桂阳北半县的政治、文化中心,也就成为商业中心。在道光年间,民间称泗州为“街子上”。道光十年(1830),泗州改设州同署,成为桂阳直隶州的副署,泗州街商业更加繁荣。
咸丰四年(1854)十一月,太平天国尹尚英部攻入泗州寨,把这里烧成一片瓦砾。1500多年历史的“五里商街”就这样风光不再。
“泗水渊源”,
曾左都留下文墨
泗州街现遗存的古建筑,除两个牌坊外都是太平天国后修建的,如塔峰书院、士杰官厅、东岳寺庙等。
陈士杰在“剿灭”太平天国大功告成后,很想恢复“泗州气象”,重修泗州的公共建筑,特别是重修塔峰书院。他的“战友”也纷纷来捧场。其中,左宗棠亲题“塔峰书院”门额,曾国藩手书“泗水渊源”牌匾。他自己呢?泼墨书写院门楹联:“开门便见坛山,要平生砥节砺名,同斯方正;此地亦呼泗水,愿诸士寻源竟委,不误趋行。”
塔峰书院后来成为桂阳北半县的知名书院,陈士杰两个儿子兆璜、兆奎和两个侄儿兆文、兆蓉均从塔峰书院就读后考中进士。
可是,任他如何卖力,就是无法恢复这里的商业元气。记者在泗水河边徜徉,青石板路上马蹄印依稀,草丛中一二堵古铺断垣残壁隐约,就是听不到买卖的喧闹声。
“水磨腔”声,曾在长街上空飘
在“商退”的同时是“文进”。
此“文”是文艺,也可说是戏文。
任官江浙时,陈士杰迷上了昆曲。那时官场,讲究“一笔好字不错,二等才情不露,三斤(黄)酒量不吐,四季衣服不当,五子围棋不悔,六出昆曲不推,七字歪诗不迟,八张马钓不查,九品头衔不选,十分和气不俗”。看戏、学戏也是官员修养之一。因此,陈士杰多次将江浙一带昆曲艺人请到桂阳演出并传艺,场所就在陈氏宗祠内的戏台。声音关不住,一时泗州街上响起阵阵“水磨腔”。
如今,湘昆已被列为国家级非物质文化遗产,它的源头无疑是昆曲。有一种说法,昆曲很快与桂阳的文化相融合,逐渐形成独特的“桂阳昆曲”,陈氏宗祠戏台可视作桂阳湘昆的发祥地。此说让专家去鉴定,但陈士杰在湘昆发展史上应有重要一笔。
陈孙修路,泗州古镇成山村
确实,泗州古镇现在有点冷静。然而,造成这种冷静的既是时代,也是泗州人自己,说得更准确的是陈家人。陈士杰为官后期,热衷于洋务,将其孙子陈毓英派到德国留学,专攻铁路修筑技术。陈毓英归国后主持修建粤汉铁路衡(阳)韶(关)段,第一次打通了南岭隧道,使内地和南粤连通一体。
如此,穿过泗州镇那条古驿道“沦”为乡间小道,泗州古镇也成了一个山村。
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