编者按
湖南省民协【大美乡愁】寻找湖南最美“古村镇，老手艺”活动采编组，带你走泗州寨（下）
【湖南日报】2014年10月10日第四版报道
本报记者 文热心 邓明
通讯员 骆国平
泗州寨的兴起并不因为“水”，而是“城”——官家在这里设治理机构——筑城，因“城”而“市”。因此，这里除了“二里陈街，三里官街”外，还有“五里商街”。虽然商业世俗，可这里文厚史深。
“五里商街”，繁荣不存一把火
“五里商街”，是指泗州街店铺部分，一般以两个牌坊作标志，即从北街的陈尚伊的节孝牌坊到南街的陈嘉贞的贞节牌坊。
这段距离内，街道两旁曾林立着伞、盐、瓦罐、鼎锅、皮革、土纸等铺子，还有牛行、树行等。特别是皮革产品，制作精良，手工细腻，曾远销东北并出口俄罗斯。泗州街的巷道大体为东西走向，分别用陈氏的字辈“忠厚贻谟远，诗书锡庆长”命名，后来又陆续增加了一些商业文化元素的巷名，如“诚”字巷、“信”字巷等。
早在东晋穆帝升平二年（约358年），这里就设宫市县，“市”随“城”兴，泗州街初具雏形（街外县治遗址仍存）。真正让商业勃兴的因素是那条古驿道。它由北往南延伸，将衡（阳）桂（阳）郴（州）等城市“串”起，直至两广。
官员、商贾南来北往，在这里歇脚驻马，自然也就店铺林立了。清康熙六年（1667）二月，朝廷在这里设巡检司，作为桂阳北半县的政治、文化中心，也就成为商业中心。在道光年间，民间称泗州为“街子上”。道光十年（1830），泗州改设州同署，成为桂阳直隶州的副署，泗州街商业更加繁荣。
咸丰四年（1854）十一月，太平天国尹尚英部攻入泗州寨，把这里烧成一片瓦砾。1500多年历史的“五里商街”就这样风光不再。
“泗水渊源”，
曾左都留下文墨
泗州街现遗存的古建筑，除两个牌坊外都是太平天国后修建的，如塔峰书院、士杰官厅、东岳寺庙等。
陈士杰在“剿灭”太平天国大功告成后，很想恢复“泗州气象”，重修泗州的公共建筑，特别是重修塔峰书院。他的“战友”也纷纷来捧场。其中，左宗棠亲题“塔峰书院”门额，曾国藩手书“泗水渊源”牌匾。他自己呢？泼墨书写院门楹联：“开门便见坛山，要平生砥节砺名，同斯方正；此地亦呼泗水，愿诸士寻源竟委，不误趋行。”
塔峰书院后来成为桂阳北半县的知名书院，陈士杰两个儿子兆璜、兆奎和两个侄儿兆文、兆蓉均从塔峰书院就读后考中进士。
可是，任他如何卖力，就是无法恢复这里的商业元气。记者在泗水河边徜徉，青石板路上马蹄印依稀，草丛中一二堵古铺断垣残壁隐约，就是听不到买卖的喧闹声。
“水磨腔”声，曾在长街上空飘
在“商退”的同时是“文进”。
此“文”是文艺，也可说是戏文。
任官江浙时，陈士杰迷上了昆曲。那时官场，讲究“一笔好字不错，二等才情不露，三斤（黄）酒量不吐，四季衣服不当，五子围棋不悔，六出昆曲不推，七字歪诗不迟，八张马钓不查，九品头衔不选，十分和气不俗”。看戏、学戏也是官员修养之一。因此，陈士杰多次将江浙一带昆曲艺人请到桂阳演出并传艺，场所就在陈氏宗祠内的戏台。声音关不住，一时泗州街上响起阵阵“水磨腔”。
如今，湘昆已被列为国家级非物质文化遗产，它的源头无疑是昆曲。有一种说法，昆曲很快与桂阳的文化相融合，逐渐形成独特的“桂阳昆曲”，陈氏宗祠戏台可视作桂阳湘昆的发祥地。此说让专家去鉴定，但陈士杰在湘昆发展史上应有重要一笔。
陈孙修路，泗州古镇成山村
确实，泗州古镇现在有点冷静。然而，造成这种冷静的既是时代，也是泗州人自己，说得更准确的是陈家人。陈士杰为官后期，热衷于洋务，将其孙子陈毓英派到德国留学，专攻铁路修筑技术。陈毓英归国后主持修建粤汉铁路衡（阳）韶（关）段，第一次打通了南岭隧道，使内地和南粤连通一体。
如此，穿过泗州镇那条古驿道“沦”为乡间小道，泗州古镇也成了一个山村。
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