编者按
湖南省民协【大美乡愁】寻找湖南最美“古村镇，老手艺”活动采编组，带你走进千年古镇—绥宁寨市。
【湖南日报】2014年8月8日第五版报道
本报记者 文热心 蒋剑平
来到绥宁寨市，一身轻松。
夏初的莳竹河，绿水如缎，倒映在水里的是悠悠啃青的牛儿，田边陈年的秆堆，静静卧在渠里的筒车，还有码头上浣衣的少女。
这个千年古镇保存得还算完整。记者徜徉在经过一番修整的西河街上。街长500余米，大多为明、清代旧木房。两面商铺林立，晒楼上一个接一个的大红灯笼，在微风中轻轻摇晃。青石板和鹅卵石拼成的小街上，干净得如水洗过。没有车辆、叫卖的喧哗，没有音响招徕生意的嘈杂，也没有匆匆赶路的行人。门前铺内，人们不紧不慢地雕刻万花茶，腌制酸萝卜，翻晒柿子饼，间或有老人坐在门前的木椅上，穿着整洁的蓝布衣褂，或聊天或打跑胡子，或品茶或抽旱烟袋，为过路的人送上几缕友善的微笑。
记者钻入古镇的小巷，寻访里头人家。这里的建筑与街上的老式木屋——飞檐翘角、下砖上木、花窗画廊、黑匾金字不同，是小四合院和窨子屋。小四合院的门前都是石头垒成的阶梯，也就是说院子要高出路面两三尺。阳光和微风从小院一面的围墙透进来，洒在院里的花草上，其他三面是黑瓦青砖的房子。窨子屋，青砖砌筑的马头墙，四角鳌头高翘，青石构建的大门，柱础刻花镂兽，气势宏伟。木板房构成的街道也罢，小四合院和窨子屋构成的小巷也罢，只要没有战争，社会安定，这里的人们就在享受轻松、悠闲中过日子。
其实，寨市当年不仅美丽，而且热闹、繁华。“蓝水远从千涧落，清溪曲抱一城流。薇茫点缀前村柳，婉转呕哑下客舟。锦被墙隈花灿灿，虹飞石岩路悠悠……”这是乾隆十九年知县程际泰笔下的景色。
它的热闹、繁华应该始于三国。当年这里称诸葛城，传说孔明先生征南蛮时也到过这里；唐代为徽州首府，称飞凤徽城；宋崇宁二年（1103年）改莳竹为绥宁县，县衙皆建于此。1954年县城迁往长铺镇。这就是说，寨市古镇历经三国、两晋、隋、唐、宋、元、明、清、民国和现代，共1800多年，其中作为县城900多年。这种热闹、繁华，有昔日的人类活动遗存作证：青石砌成、长约2公里的古城墙仍有遗存；三座城门，九座寺庙，四座祠堂，三个会馆，还有文昌阁、悬天阁、钟鼓楼、八角亭、风雨桥，虎溪书院等文物古迹，虽然失去了昔日的风韵，但有的骨架仍在，有的遗址可寻。一棵千年古银杏树下，至今保存着一块完好的封山育林古碑。上面镌有“此处风水宝地，先人培植成林，各团所有人等，不得随意毁坏”24个大字。虽然历经880年，字迹仍然清晰。
说它热闹，还因为这里发生过许多已载入史册的故事。1929年12月，邓小平、张云逸等在广西百色起义后，率领红七军向江西进发，在这里打过一仗，也住过一晚。邓小平当年住过的那个祠堂虽然已经有些落败，可基本格局无改。这里也和毛泽东有点关系。绥宁有名的“李氏三兄弟”就是寨市人。其中，李继桢是毛泽东一师不同班的同学，做过毛泽东为主事的一师附小教员。抗战时，他把长子李明松送到延安。新中国成立后，他给毛泽东写信，诉说生活困难，后来做了省政府参事。
因此，有人说，这里每一片破碎的青瓦，每一面斑驳的墙垣，每一块锃亮的石板，都能让后人在驻足间，触摸那些影影绰绰的往事，倾听那些渐远的声音。
它回归安静、轻松应该是县城搬走之后的事。地处湘西南大山深处，茂密的森林遮掩，还有那条莳竹河，都成了安静、轻松的元素。寨市，也就“像一个百战归隐的老人”了。当然，另一个因素则是人们的刻意打造——镇里准备开发其为旅游区。记者看到，店铺修旧如旧，新修的建筑也披上了“古衣”。
虽然现代化之风将古镇打扮了一番，可顶多也就是村姑穿上了连衣裙，而没有改变她的质朴和健美，更没有改变她的生活节奏。
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