编者按
湖南省民协【大美乡愁】寻找湖南最美“古村镇，老手艺”活动采编组，带你走进靖州古城。
【湖南日报】2014年12月9日第十版报道
本报记者 文热心 肖军 黄巍
通讯员 张景武
渠水南来，挨着靖州老城流过，向北再向北。
城因水而兴。北宋皇帝在这里设州也罢，朱明王朝在这里建城驻兵也罢，历史上渠水边这个盆地——靖州城成了中国版图上西南的重镇。渠水，是这个镇子的生命。
1、千年古城，骨架仍在
世事日新。历经千年的靖州城虽然今非昔比，可渠水和异溪相夹的那一块还保留着它昔日的骨架。
据当地史志专家介绍，靖州古城可用一首诗概括：“古城总是九，洪武年间修。设有五城门，还有四古楼。伞、西、前后街，轿行衙门口。中、简、一书院，十三祠堂修。五宫南北东，两堂湾坡有。四十八口井，四坡同向游。四十八石阶，荣军牌坊楼。鬼蜮城隍庙，玉皇镇靖州。”
11月初，记者寻访这里时，虽然没有看到古城门、衙门、古楼，古祠堂、书院也改作了他用，可异溪上几百“岁”的石拱古桥——马王桥仍在。别小看了这桥：“相传五代时楚王马希范尝经此，故俗名马王桥。”与桥相接的那条老街——土（楚）桥街古风依然，近千米青石板路从桥头一直延伸到西门。石板路两边，是古商铺和民居。古民居上挂有“丁家大院”、“吴家大院”、“孙家大院”等牌子。
“导游”指着一幢古建筑告诉记者：那是贵州会馆。靖州有会馆14处，保留下来的会馆还有四五处，只不过改为学校和医院罢了。
会馆多，就是客商多。渠水带来了古靖州的商业繁荣。
2、一条渠水，通江达海
靖州老城另一个特色就是码头多。
记者来到渠水的一条小巷。青石板铺就的小路从渠水河边“爬”过近百米的长坡，折上土（楚）桥街。出巷处有一个牌坊，上书“宝庆码头”。渠水沟通湘西和湘南，打造了一条繁华的物流线。也沟通了华中、华南、华东和西南，是靖州通江达海的黄金水道。
渠水是靖州人的生命线。这条发源于贵州黎平的河，经通道，入靖州，过会同，从洪江市的托口注入沅水，在靖州过境达72.5公里。境内汇入渠江的大小支流有101条，共达1021公里。
当地文史专家告诉记者：“靖州木材、兽皮、药材、核桃等山货，平川的大米、油料的运出，外面的百货、南杂的调进，几乎全部靠渠江。”有多少码头，现在人们说不出准确数字，但老人们还记河中船“阵”的壮观：“一天少则上百条，多则达200余条”，“白天渠江，百舟竟发，风帆点点”。
渠水江小滩多，水涌石繁，河道弯曲，因此撑船的人都是胆大心细、技术过硬的汉子。他们心里有一本“沿江地形地貌经”，并用“路头歌”唱出来。如：“三百篙头问一讯，黎平壕里要小心，王家洞，陡屹屹，一篙一篙撑上来。”
3、苦中作乐，渠江排歌
靖州一带森林资源十分丰富。渠水河里好放排，靖州也就成了木材集散地。
到清末时，靖州城“从东门码头沿江以上至水酿塘的木排几乎绾到江中心”。“每天排上记码工人‘差四、差五呀——’的报数声，敲虎计时的‘梆梆’声，江中划排汉子原生态的排歌声，码头浣衣女‘啪啪’的捣衣声，小孩子在河边玩耍的嬉闹声……汇成了一曲动人的原始交响乐”。
木材多，木行也多，放排也就成了靖州男人讨生活的途径。
排工苦，排工贱，排工险。不知何月何年，排工们编出了一《渠江排歌》首，苦中作乐：“托口进江大板滩，鸡龙阳秀过关难，流瀑乱石三尺浪，沙堆门口剪刀滩……金滩银滩滩连滩……铁板架挢是板滩……鲤鱼生籽是鱼滩……花花绿绿观音滩；水酿塘头望靖州，手把浮桥进东门。”
4、回味古城，记住乡愁
当然，如今的老城渠水岸边非常静谧。
记者在一个吊脚楼上，看到了一个晒太阳的老人，望着静静的渠江水出神。他在回忆过去的岁月？
当轮子代替篙子，渠水这段昔日的繁荣转移到了靖州新城，而新通车的包茂高速更让靖州城向山里扩张开去。
可是，渠水上昔日多彩、多味的生活，并没有消失在人们的记忆中。几位老人合作写出了《怀古杨家巷》，靖州有关部门还组织拍摄了《渠江，美丽的传说》电视片……这也是记住乡愁吧！
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