编者按
湖南省民协【大美乡愁】寻找湖南最美“古村镇,老手艺”活动采编组,带你走进报木山下东边的上寨,寻访近二千年历史留在这里的印迹。
【湖南日报】2014年12月8日第二版报道
本报记者 文热心 肖军 黄巍
通讯员 雷国荣
报木山,山的西边是贵州碧江区,山的东边是湖南麻阳的郭公坪乡。
自东汉到明清,这里一直是苗疆前哨。
日前,记者来到报木山下东边的上寨,寻访近二千年历史留在这里的印迹。
是民居,也是堡垒
在现代化之风吹拂之下,上寨一部分村民拆旧建新,盖起了红瓦白墙的楼房,但保留下来的明清时期古民居还有许多。现存最古的房子有300余年历史。
从麻(阳)铜(仁)公路入村,道口有一棵腰围近两米的古柏,它折射出村子的“年龄”之光。
过了那条“护村河”,便来到村前。虽然昔日环绕村子的丈余高、上有瞭望口和射击孔的青石条寨墙已被拆除,可基脚仍在。
站在基脚往上看,全村顺着山坡,呈梯次形向报木山腰延伸。不管是大户人家的青砖建筑,还是一般人家的土砖房子,第一层都是用青条石或青块石砌成的墙。每一个建筑单元,都被青石围墙圈住。青石墙上有青条石槽门。围墙上绘有水墨图画,但更多的是枪眼。
各单元的青石条大门,都与村中如蛛网般的青石板巷路连通。巷路设有总大门、二门、三门等多道大门,这都是防御关卡。人置身巷网中,如入迷宫难分南北。在军事家眼里,这里每一个建筑单元都是一个独立的堡垒,整个建筑群实际是一个大型防御体系,具有明清古军事建筑特色。
南长城,起自这里
这里自东汉以来就是古战场,是东汉名将马援镇压“五溪蛮”时兵锋所指之处。
而明嘉靖二十三年(1543)三月的贵州“铜平苗民暴动”,就发生在报木山的那边。义军曾打进麻阳,攻克了湘黔边界重镇小坡村。明将万镗遣兵万余进行“围剿”,镇压了这场起义。但以后苗民反抗并未停止,大小起义连绵不断。如此,明王朝怎能安心?
自万历四十三年(1615)起,明王朝耗费巨资,动用民工数万修建一道南方“边墙”。这墙西起贵州铜仁亭子关,经湖南凤凰,至麻阳郭公坪,绵延500公里。据专家考证,报木山是“南长城”的起点。不过,“南长城”麻阳段修筑时省了很多事,因为有东汉长城的基础,修修补补也就成了。
记者登上报木山,眼前是一条堆垒着石块的长龙,蜿蜿蜒蜒顺着山势延伸着,虽然有的段落已经毁塌,有的还是厚厚的墙,但它当年的威严仍在。
川洞里,猿猴难攀
记者顺着由湘黔古驿道基础上修建而成的麻(阳)铜(仁)公路,经过名叫川洞的溶洞,进入山的那边——贵州境内。
这个距上寨约二里路的溶洞是湘黔交通咽喉。
洞如大厅,无可攀爬;洞底流水滔滔,从岩旮旯直泻山谷,再汇入锦江河中。
记者站在洞西,回头一望,只见报木山悬崖峭壁,猿猴难攀。
公元48年,苗民在川洞悬崖绝壁上修了栈道,以通湘黔。
可战争,让川洞成为“苗疆第一关”。如果遇到敌方从川洞进攻麻阳,防守一方只要放下铁门将洞口一堵,就是李元霸再世,也无可奈何。如果敌方从报木山西边进攻,“南长城”上两座碉堡组成的交叉火力网,会将人们打入深涧。
古兵寨,诉说当年
顺着“南长城”遗址前行四五百米,上寨正对面的山顶上有一个堡垒群。当地人告之,那是一个兵营。在郭公坪一带,共有八个驻军要塞,分别是报木寨、杨家寨、溢寨、青山寨、罢戈寨、六寨、雷公寨、九坪寨。
八个要塞组成了一个完整的防御体系。其中,报木寨据守马黄坡天堑,防敌从锦江那边越山偷袭。杨家寨是守护古县城的。罢戈寨应该是大寨——中军帐所在之处,设有跑马场、练兵场、瞭望台等,有重兵驻扎。雷公寨,驻军忆苦洞,前临万丈深渊,背后群山起伏,可以抵拒来自贵州、凤凰方向的入侵。九坪寨则是后勤基地,“九坪”也就是九个坪,坪上阳光充足,土地肥沃,物产丰富,驻军战时打仗,平时种田,九个坪里的收获可以满足各山寨驻军所需。
战争,让这里变成了战场。战火中的百姓和他们的生活设施也军事化了。
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