【大美乡愁】活动动态(25)曾记窑火旺千年—醴陵沩山村

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2014年7月11日,湖南省民协【记住乡愁】寻找湖南最美“古村镇,老手艺”采编组将带你走进湖南省株洲醴陵市东堡乡沩山村,采访千年窑火文明。

【湖南日报】2014年7月11日第8版报道

两座青山 一沟流水

从醴陵北下沪昆高速西行,大约20多公里过仙槎桥水库后,就进入沩山村。

两边青山夹着一条宽约500来米的田垄,还有一沟流水,弯弯绕绕地由西向东延伸,南岳七十二峰中的一座是它们的起点。

现代化之风:汽车、电脑、乡村别墅,早进入了这个山村,可绿荫、宁静、悠闲是主色调:树木葳蕤,流水潺潺,鸡鸣狗吠,鸭子浮水,虫声嘀咕。

两千年窑火的遗存

青山绿水下掩埋的是两千年窑火文明。

2007年,这里一个山包起火,树木成灰后是一座白花花的瓷山。村里人觉得平常,外面人却“拍案惊奇”:这里生产过瓷器,什么时候?与醴陵瓷业是什么关系?

相继赶来的文物专家们考察得出结论:这是中国迄今为止出土的最大古窑群:有宋窑、元窑、明窑和清窑,还有与长沙铜官窑同期的唐代陶瓷碎片,甚至更早的。60余座古窑分布以沩山为中心的约129平方公里范围内,被森林覆盖着。

文字记载和地下遗存,还有亲历者都证明:这里是醴陵瓷业的源头。

接待记者的蔡其伟年过七旬,瓷工出身,是醴陵古窑的管理员,满肚子“沩山瓷经”。在他的记忆里,沩山当年可是山山窑火,处处冒烟;草蓬里是和泥、做坯、绘画的瓷工忙碌的身影;街道的旅馆里,是操着各种口音的瓷商;山脚下那条古道,独轮车唱着“吱吱呀呀”的歌,驮着竹篓子包装的瓷器,向东奔向前头的姜湾码头,瓷器就从那里装船,从渌江转湘江,然后出洞庭,过长江,进入城市,再进入千家万户。年复一年,渌江上重复着这样的景象:点点白帆,声声号子……醴陵瓷器就在这景象中扬名中国,扬名世界。

蔡其伟说,当年沩山号称“小南京”。民国时期,这里驻有收税机关,还有别动队,前者是“抽血”,后者是“抽查”。鼎盛时期,沩山范围瓷厂几百家,居民、窑工、商贾等人口过万,戏台、绸庄、饭馆一应俱全。

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129平方公里的寻访

看完醴陵古瓷窑,蔡其伟带记者来到瓷泥洞口遗址。他说,你别看这里现在茅丛树遮的,先前可是沩山做瓷的中心,不仅出瓷泥,不远处就是醴陵古窑。或许是瓷工的聚集地吧,大戏台就建在这里。果然,残垣上的仕女芙蓉,褪去了鲜艳色彩,可线条还是清晰的。

记者顺着山脚下那条“瓷器古道”寻访:它宽不到两米,顺着青山之麓,蜿蜿蜒蜒向东延伸,白中带青的瓷片一团团地露出地面,独轮车千百年辗出的车辙仍然清晰地刻在石板桥上。

虽然沩山村当年的中心街道,现在已沉入望仙桥水库水底,可它的风采留在镜头里,挂在古窑旁土坯屋的壁上。

无名溪旁当年那些水井仍在滋润着这方人们,碾辗瓷泥的动力——木水轮机的“水鼓”还默默地躺在水槽里……

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60年间的兴—衰—荣

沩山现在扬名了,可它仍然没有摆脱“世外桃源”之风。

其实,沩山走向寂静不过60多年的历史。由兴旺走向衰落,再由衰落到名扬,蔡其伟就是见证人。他说,因为苍天垂爱,山里头都是瓷泥,烧土做瓷也就成了这方人们的营生。这里做瓷的人尊明代樊进德为先师,立庙祭祀,说明樊对这里瓷业发展起过重要作用。

沩山瓷业再兴的功臣则是广东兴宁人廖仲威。廖生于制瓷世家,清朝雍正年间来到醴陵,向沩山寺的智慧和尚租地设厂,邀同乡技工来这制瓷,清代醴陵陶瓷业序幕从此拉开。

后来,这里成了名瓷的“诞生地”。蔡其伟指着山窝里一片土房子说,那就是群力瓷厂的前身。不仅如此,这里还是中国釉下五彩瓷器的发源地。1915年,这种瓷在巴拿马博览会上获得金奖。只是上世纪50年代末,许多工厂都迁到了醴陵县城旁边,这里也就逐渐走向静寂。

虽然静寂,却不掩风流!

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