大寨村里的亚洲“杉树王”。
2014年7月7日 湖南日报
本报记者 文热心 戴勤
盛夏时节,记者来到城步长安营大寨村寻访。
站在当年红军长征停歇过红枫林里的“转运石”上,眺望垅中的大寨村,犹如观赏一幅水墨画。
苍翠的青山下,一片吊脚楼“倚崖顾坡,顺势而建”,木墙木架,黑瓦白檐;
清澈的长安河,从村前缓缓流过,东晋时期所栽的“杉树王”和周围37株古杉,分布于村中长安河边的沙滩上,犹如给古村披上了一道绿纱;
青石板镶成的小道,将各楼串联起来……
这些吊脚楼,每一栋楼都是双层重檐,柱桩底部铺以块石,所有支柱卯榫相扣。楼下为牲畜圈、厕所;一楼是厨房、火塘等,为活动空间;二楼是卧室,当然还有客房,房间非常整洁,还散发着一种淡淡的木香味。
给记者留下深刻印象的是村主任阳开芳家的院子:
青石板路弯弯曲曲伸向院门,青石片块堆砌成院墙。院子里的花草图案由鹅卵石镶就,还栽有石榴、黄梨、紫薇等花木。一条小溪从山顶依吊脚楼一角流下,叮咚作响。阳家用竹枧接来山泉做“自来水”。站在院子的树木中,村寨、农田都收眼底。
这些吊脚楼从历史深处走来,因为“大寨”村名,源自这里一段血与火的历史。清廷在镇压粟贤宇、杨清保领导的农民起义时,曾在这里驻兵,而且是中军帐驻设的地方。只是后来继续进兵,移帐前行,这里成了粮草仓库。
大寨很美,环境美、建筑美,但记者对这里印象最深刻的却是人情美。
我们向阳开芳提出:领略了大寨之美,还想听长安营的故事。
他眼睛转了几转,马上热情地邀请:“那就到我家喝油茶吧!我爸爸最近在写这方面的书,他说得清楚。”
一到阳家,阳父忠政一边给我们讲故事,一边让家人张罗茶水。
一会儿,茶来了,是虫茶。记者知道,这可是当年的贡品。
清朝乾隆年间,城步一带百姓起义,遭到清兵镇压,躲入深山老林。百姓们只能以野菜、茶叶充饥。谁知,屋漏偏遇连夜雨,茶叶遭到虫害,被吃得净光后只剩下一片虫屎。
一个偶然机会,人们发现掉进了虫屎的水,居然味道甘甜。后来,“虫茶”成为城步名产,并记入了《城步乡土志》。记者尝了一口,确实味道独特。
接着油茶端来,那是由炒米、花生、豆子炸好或炒好后,浇上茶油,然后用滚水冲成的。
茶还在主人手上,香味早就扑进了客人的鼻子;瞧一瞧,红黄白黑杂合,像一朵盛开在碗里的菊花;尝一口,一种混合香味直入肺腑。
其实,油茶不仅好看好吃,而且耐饥、营养。山民早上起来先喝上一碗,可做半天功夫。
更独特的是主人敬茶的方式:不是苗家拦门酒那样不喝不让进门,也不是蒙古同胞劝酒一样不喝歌声不断,这里用的是“激将法”。记者连喝了两碗,自觉已经过份,可主人再递来一碗。实在喝不了,自然不敢接,可主人不言只是笑笑,不罢手。
随同的小汪念出一段顺口溜:“一碗是盗,二碗是贼,三碗四碗才是客。”侗家就怕客人不多喝!小汪告诉记者,有一次,乡镇府机关接待了一批广东来写生的画家,做好中午饭等他们,可到太阳西斜也不见人,原来都到侗胞家喝油茶去了。
小汪说,侗胞就这样好客、热情、实意,在路上不管你认识不认识的,只要聊熟了,他一定会请到家喝油茶。
记者要寻访古长安营遗址,可连“土著”小汪也找不到路径,便向一位老农问路。
他叫黄明科,今年60岁,带着我们找到了一个长满青草的堆子。他觉得没尽心,便带我们绕了一圈,直到看清楚青草下的石块,前后花了半个时辰。看完,他匆匆告辞,说现在是农忙季节,要去插秧。好一片古道热肠。
大寨美,最美在人情。
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