大寨村里的亚洲“杉树王”。
2014年7月7日 湖南日报
本报记者 文热心 戴勤
盛夏时节，记者来到城步长安营大寨村寻访。
站在当年红军长征停歇过红枫林里的“转运石”上，眺望垅中的大寨村，犹如观赏一幅水墨画。
苍翠的青山下，一片吊脚楼“倚崖顾坡，顺势而建”，木墙木架，黑瓦白檐；
清澈的长安河，从村前缓缓流过，东晋时期所栽的“杉树王”和周围37株古杉，分布于村中长安河边的沙滩上，犹如给古村披上了一道绿纱；
青石板镶成的小道，将各楼串联起来……
这些吊脚楼，每一栋楼都是双层重檐，柱桩底部铺以块石，所有支柱卯榫相扣。楼下为牲畜圈、厕所；一楼是厨房、火塘等，为活动空间；二楼是卧室，当然还有客房，房间非常整洁，还散发着一种淡淡的木香味。
给记者留下深刻印象的是村主任阳开芳家的院子：
青石板路弯弯曲曲伸向院门，青石片块堆砌成院墙。院子里的花草图案由鹅卵石镶就，还栽有石榴、黄梨、紫薇等花木。一条小溪从山顶依吊脚楼一角流下，叮咚作响。阳家用竹枧接来山泉做“自来水”。站在院子的树木中，村寨、农田都收眼底。
这些吊脚楼从历史深处走来，因为“大寨”村名，源自这里一段血与火的历史。清廷在镇压粟贤宇、杨清保领导的农民起义时，曾在这里驻兵，而且是中军帐驻设的地方。只是后来继续进兵，移帐前行，这里成了粮草仓库。
大寨很美，环境美、建筑美，但记者对这里印象最深刻的却是人情美。
我们向阳开芳提出：领略了大寨之美，还想听长安营的故事。
他眼睛转了几转，马上热情地邀请：“那就到我家喝油茶吧！我爸爸最近在写这方面的书，他说得清楚。”
一到阳家，阳父忠政一边给我们讲故事，一边让家人张罗茶水。
一会儿，茶来了，是虫茶。记者知道，这可是当年的贡品。
清朝乾隆年间，城步一带百姓起义，遭到清兵镇压，躲入深山老林。百姓们只能以野菜、茶叶充饥。谁知，屋漏偏遇连夜雨，茶叶遭到虫害，被吃得净光后只剩下一片虫屎。
一个偶然机会，人们发现掉进了虫屎的水，居然味道甘甜。后来，“虫茶”成为城步名产，并记入了《城步乡土志》。记者尝了一口，确实味道独特。
接着油茶端来，那是由炒米、花生、豆子炸好或炒好后，浇上茶油，然后用滚水冲成的。
茶还在主人手上，香味早就扑进了客人的鼻子；瞧一瞧，红黄白黑杂合，像一朵盛开在碗里的菊花；尝一口，一种混合香味直入肺腑。
其实，油茶不仅好看好吃，而且耐饥、营养。山民早上起来先喝上一碗，可做半天功夫。
更独特的是主人敬茶的方式：不是苗家拦门酒那样不喝不让进门，也不是蒙古同胞劝酒一样不喝歌声不断，这里用的是“激将法”。记者连喝了两碗，自觉已经过份，可主人再递来一碗。实在喝不了，自然不敢接，可主人不言只是笑笑，不罢手。
随同的小汪念出一段顺口溜：“一碗是盗，二碗是贼，三碗四碗才是客。”侗家就怕客人不多喝！小汪告诉记者，有一次，乡镇府机关接待了一批广东来写生的画家，做好中午饭等他们，可到太阳西斜也不见人，原来都到侗胞家喝油茶去了。
小汪说，侗胞就这样好客、热情、实意，在路上不管你认识不认识的，只要聊熟了，他一定会请到家喝油茶。
记者要寻访古长安营遗址，可连“土著”小汪也找不到路径，便向一位老农问路。
他叫黄明科，今年60岁，带着我们找到了一个长满青草的堆子。他觉得没尽心，便带我们绕了一圈，直到看清楚青草下的石块，前后花了半个时辰。看完，他匆匆告辞，说现在是农忙季节，要去插秧。好一片古道热肠。
大寨美，最美在人情。
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