「湖南日报」2014年6月7日报道
朱亭,朱熹停歇的地方
朱亭大码头甬门
(资料照片)
朱亭麻石街。
(资料照片)
本报记者 文热心
通讯员
黄娟
朱亭,株洲县的一个镇,本名浦湾,因为南宋时大理学家朱熹曾在这里停歇,结庐讲学,后来立亭祀朱,也就朱亭了。
1、两水夹角好停船
湘水从南迤逦而来,被狮子岭轻轻一挡,形成一个回水湾——浦湾,然后又滔滔北去。
朱亭港从40多公里湘潭、宁乡交界处的凤凰山西奔而来,在狮子岭下和湘江汇合。不仅冲积成一个三角洲,还形成一个天然良港。朱亭古镇就建在洲上港边。
登上狮子岭,风光尽收眼底:湘江对岸是湘中河谷平原,田园阡陌,还有露出轮廓的房舍;北面,挽洲岛如磐湘江之中,像一块祖母绿镶在古人丝绸帽子上;西边狮子岭后,是重重青山。
在水动力的年代,城镇因水而兴,何况朱亭两水相抱?
当地文史专家何伏立告诉我们,朱亭最兴旺时有九大码头:一苇、官家、谢家、肖家、油铺湾、莫家、大码头、弯码头、新码头。
2、一个麻石的世界
人说,朱亭“是现在湖南保存最为完整的古村镇之一”。此话不虚!
记者发现,九大码头除一个已现代化外,其余的依然麻石,石上磨得溜光,两边长满了青苔、凤尾竹,还有野蔷薇。
除了这些麻石码头外,这里还保存着基本完整的麻石古街。最完整那条北临朱亭港,东西走向。记者粗粗地丈量了一下,从湘江口至朱张桥,大约有400来米。长条麻石整整齐齐地排列着,每块长约1.2米左右,宽约0.7米。街的南边是一栋栋青砖黑瓦的小镇人家。
从麻石街西头进入桌子街,先得穿过一座高大的甬门。麻石为基,青砖为框,白粉糊面,上方有“大码头”三个大字,旁边还有彩色的绘画。
入得门来,麻石铺地,青砖、木板结构的铺面沿街向南延伸着。其实,这里不仅仅是商业世界,还有育婴堂、邮驿、甚至衙门。向南而行,一路是麻石铺就的阶坡,直通湘江岸边。
古码头、古街道、古民居,还有古水井、古驿道、古茶亭……朱亭古风依然。
3、老街里头有文章
何伏立告诉记者,朱亭当年共有三街九码头七十二家房客(客栈)。三街,沿朱亭港一条,沿湘江一条,还有就是这条桌子街。桌子街是桌子的世界,摆货之桌——摊子,进香之桌——香案。人们在前两条街忙完营生,到这里来进行文化、消费活动——拜菩萨、喝小酒、采购生活用品。
何伏立说:“上世纪30年代左右,这里水运最发达。攸县、茶陵的铁锅,还有凤凰山区的柴炭、粮食等,都用木船运到朱亭中转,然后南运衡阳、北运长沙和武汉等地。”他描绘那时的情景:每逢赶集时船只绵延2公里路,从晨曦到日暮,码头一直熙熙攘攘。由于水运繁忙,政府在这里专设水警队巡逻,维持秩序。
中转的不仅是货,还有人。要闯长沙、汉口、南京、上海大口岸的人们,得从这里换乘大船,自然得在这里整理一番。优越的地理位置,朱亭想不兴旺也不行。
4、古镇还有“新元素”
朱亭古风依然!
这,在现代化之风劲吹,轮子取代“水能”,又处在因轮而兴的株洲城眼皮底下的朱亭,不能不说是个奇迹。
京广铁路、京珠高速,还有S211线都从朱亭地域里穿过,可这些“高速度”都在狮子岭的那边,现代化无法完全剥夺它核心部分的宁静。而上个世纪营造的全国知名“朱亭林海”,不仅增加了它的美丽,更增加了它的安宁。
朱亭展现在记者眼中不仅是古代世俗的繁华,更有朱亭之名、古道遗址、祖师之殿、挽洲诗声等历史文化沉积。
5、朱亭,其实是“朱停”
南宋乾道二年(公元1166年)的古历十一月初八至初九,朱熹和张栻在岳麓书院会讲之后去游南岳,因为朱熹还没去过那里。
十一月初六,他们从长沙出发,溯湘江而上,约于八日、九日到达浦湾。景色是那么美丽,天也晚了,他们便在这里歇息。两人名气如此之大,当地人岂能放过就教的机会?于是,再三邀请他们讲学。两人一改计划,在这里作短暂停留,结亭讲学。浦湾从此有了新地名——朱亭。
后来,人们更在朱熹讲学的地方建起了龙潭书院(毁于1961年),还建起了“朱张桥”。随着朱张的名气越来越响,这里的人们又建起了紫阳阁(朱熹别号紫阳)。只是可惜,这些建筑一毁二改,后来变成了学校、电影院。
6、古道始于三国时
其实,不仅朱熹在这里停歇,张飞也留下了遗迹——狮子岭下那棵古樟。
传说张飞奉刘备之命北巡,在这里下马时,将马拴在驿站旁的一棵樟树上。当年的“拴马樟”,仍然枝繁叶茂。
虽然是传说,可在两千多年前的三国时期,这里就是一个人口稠密、市面繁华、交通便利的集镇,官方在此设有驿站,亦为兵家必争之地。清雍正年间重修的那条长岭驿道的遗存——长岭古茶亭也可印证。
据何伏立考证,长岭古道从朱亭,经长岭、黄龙桥、龙凤直通攸县、衡阳。古道从狮子岭上山,沿长岭山脊,在崇山峻岭中迤逦南延,长达10余里。古道宽约2至3米,可行马车,道心用长约一米,宽约0、4米的麻石铺就。驿道虽然在民国时期废止,但上个世纪60年代初仍然是朱亭通攸县、衡阳、醴陵的主要道路。
7、佛殿供奉达摩像
在朱熹来之前,中国佛教禅宗派南宗六祖慧能的三传弟子怀让就到过朱亭。不仅来过,而且在这里留下“踏苇过江”的传说,也在这里修起了祖师殿。
“祖师殿”坐落在狮子岭山腰。它是特色鲜明的佛殿,与一般佛殿不同的是,这里正殿里供奉的不是如来佛,而是达摩菩萨——中国佛教禅宗派的奠基人、中国佛教的“祖师爷”。
自殿成之后,那里不仅成了一方名胜,而且是一方信众去南岳之前的必到之处。
8、杜甫作诗挽洲岛
挽洲岛则是杜甫达到之处。挽洲在湘江朱亭段上游约2公里处。当年岛上古木参天,岸边怪石嶙峋。岛上居民或捕鱼,或养蚕,或耕田,怡然自乐。
杜甫在庙堂失意后四处漂泊,终日醉酒吟诗。唐大历四年(公元769年),杜甫“老病有孤舟”,携眷乘舟在湘江上漂泊,曾在这一段的渌口、空灵岸、花石、挽洲、凿石等地流连忘返。他日游挽洲,夜宿浦湾,迷在挽洲秀丽风景中,用《次挽洲》一诗借景抒情:“……挽洲适知名,秀色固异状。棹经垂猿把,身在度鸟上……羁离暂愉悦,羸老反惆怅……”
朱亭就是这样,世俗与文雅相共。前者是它的根基,后者是它的气质。就是那些古代物质遗存全都消失,朱亭之名不变。
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