【大美乡愁】活动动态(51)凉亭·钟楼·祠堂

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湖南省民协【大美乡愁】寻找湖南最美“古村镇,老手艺”活动采编组,带你走进桂阳县东成的庙下村。

【湖南日报】2014年9月21日第四版报道

本报记者 文热心 邓明

通讯员 颜石敦

8月上旬,记者来到桂阳县东成的庙下村寻访。

除村边有几栋现代建筑外,里边仍是“明月清风”旧时光。

青砖黑瓦清水墙,青石巷道青水沟——庙下的基本色彩。

“四栋八间通腰巷”,大门开敞无天井——庙下的建筑风格。

一个村子都姓雷,聚居已近700年——庙下悠久的历史。

哪些房子建于明,哪些建于清?“明朝风格更质朴,清朝后变得更花俏、精细”,村里老人会告诉区别的诀窍。就这方面而言,庙下与湘南地区古村相比,并没有太大的区别。给记者留下深刻印象的,是这里保存得完好的古公共设施。

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村头半月形水塘旁边,有一块鹅卵石、青石板筑地的大坪,坪中有座青砖黑瓦木梁的凉亭,里头摆有青石桌凳。村人告诉记者,这里“明朝就已存在”,亭里磨得溜光的条石证明他们说得不罔。

亭子里,桌边是打牌的老人,旁边还有捉对在楚河汉界厮杀的“将军”。当然,还有人在亭外独自抽着纸烟,有的成对在窃窃私语,有的什么也不做,只享受那八棵古柏覆盖下的荫凉。这里,是享受生活的“休闲中心”,也是家长里短的“信息中心”,还是规矩行为的“宣传中心”——凉亭石柱上刻印“永禁:亭内不许堆物、打铁为准”,“禁宰杀耕牛”。大坪属于男人。

在村前的另一个坪里,一边是三口古井,清澈的泉水从靠东边那口流出,再进入第二口、第三口。井边是汲水的少女、洗菜的少妇,浣衣的大嫂。另一边地势稍高,上面是哄着孩子的年轻母亲,做着针线的精明堂客,还有打着纸牌的婆婆姥姥。那棵500年的银杏树为她们遮住了太阳。这里是女人领地。

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另两个地方则属于全村所有的人。

一个是村前那个钟楼,青砖木梁结构,高达五层,顶上安有一口铁钟,远远看上去像一座炮楼。确实,这是一个集发令和防守于一体的建筑。村里如果有事,管事的登楼敲钟,全村大小就可以到楼前的雷氏祠堂集合。一旦遇到外部势力攻村,这里居高临下,就是一个堡垒,第四层上至今保存着枪炮眼。

另一个是村里雷氏宗祠。这个宗祠三进,第一进是过道和义仓。义仓,由雷氏家族全体户主捐谷,“积谷”用于救助孤寡,奖励学生,接济灾荒。引导记者寻访的老人告诉记者,考上小、中、大学,分等级奖励,他就靠“积谷”念完了小学中学。

第二进是戏台,台口朝内,台前是天井,两边有游廊。

第三进堂屋正面墙上是神龛,摆放着雷氏列祖列宗的牌位,这个堂屋既是集会的“主席台”,又是大型宴会的“上座席”,还是看戏的“贵宾位”。虽属乡村戏台,两边联语也颇耐人寻味:“庙堂留古迹,唐者尧,虞者舜,夏者桀,商者纣,历代盛衰,举目何难尽见;下土著全球,东之夷,西之戎,南之蛮,北之狄,四方境界,施踵便可遨游。”

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村里两位主事的老人告诉记者,这祠堂可是村里的政治、文化、礼仪中心,商量村里大事在这里开会,大型文化活动在这里举行,所有的红白喜事都在这里办——桌椅板凳、灶砧碗筷等全套都是现成的。

据村里老人说,这些公共设施只是保存下来的一部分,当然也是精华部分,其他的一些已毁弃,如村前的惜字炉——青石砌成、形如灵塔的炉子。当年,所有留有字迹的废纸得送到里头焚化,绝不能“私自处理”。人们有着如此意识——“文字为圣人所造,不可以怠慢”;“字纸随意丢弃,有辱斯文,也是对读书人大不敬”。

这些公共设施的实用价值自不用说,而记者更看重其维护乡村社会秩序的机制价值。自“井田制”崩溃以后,如果不是战火到达之处,中国乡村社会任你“城头变换大王旗”,仍能按自己的节奏运行着,就是这种机制的作用。

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